Grisedale: The Dale That Died

A walk into the neighbouring valley

Just north of Garsdale lies Grisedale, a small, wild tributary valley that earned a dramatic nickname in the 1970s. A walk up into Grisedale is one of the most atmospheric things you can do from Garsdale, particularly in the early evening when short-eared owls hunt the moorland.

A Dale That Nearly Disappeared

The name comes from Old Norse, referring either to wild boars or young pigs. In medieval times, the land was held by Jervaulx Abbey and Easby Abbey, gifted to them by Roger de Mowbray.

At the turn of the twentieth century, fourteen to sixteen families lived spread across the dale, farming the difficult ground. But the hardships of the 1930s and the savage winter of 1947 drove many away. By the mid-1960s, only two houses were occupied, and by the early 1970s a single farmer remained.

In 1975, Yorkshire Television producer Barry Cockcroft made a documentary about Grisedale called The Dale that Died. It followed Joe Gibson, a 61-year-old former miner who had started a new life as a sheep farmer in the valley. Cockcroft described it as "the most romantic dale in all of Yorkshire, complete in its unspoilt beauty, serenity and vivid history." The film caused quite a stir.

Short-eared owl hunting over the moorland

A Dale That Refused to Die

The houses of Grisedale, each with a story of its own, include Blakemire, Mouse Syke, Chapel House, Beck House, Reachey, Aldershaw, Moor Rigg, East House and Fea Fow. A local history book, Bell Pratt of Grisdale, tells the story of a man born in the dale in 1910, covering farming life, army service, Methodist lay preaching and the farming year. It gives a real feel for what life in Grisedale was like.

In the years since the documentary, the dale has quietly come back to life. People seeking rural solitude have bought and restored the old farmhouses, drawn from all over Britain. Farming continues too. Joe Gibson's grandson Matthew still keeps Swaledale sheep at Mouse Syke, maintaining the family's connection to this remote place.

Nearly fifty years after that documentary, Grisedale is perhaps better described as the dale that refused to die.

Evening light over the fells near Garsdale

Walking to Grisedale

Grisedale is accessible on foot from Garsdale and makes for a rewarding walk of varying length depending on how far you venture in. The dale is a cul-de-sac, nearly three miles long, so you retrace your steps coming back. In spring and early summer, the birdlife is remarkable. Keep an eye out for short-eared owls quartering the moorland in the evening, and listen for curlews, lapwings and skylarks.

A traditional annual walk into Grisedale is organised from Mount Zion Chapel, usually in July or August, followed by tea back at the chapel. If your visit coincides with this, it is a lovely way to explore the dale in company and hear local stories along the way.